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The ruins of Ancient Messene, about 20 km (12 mi) north of the modern city of the same name, are set amid olive groves and pine forests on the slopes of majestic Mt. Ithomi (also known as Voulkanos). Epaminondas, the Theban leader, built Ancient Messene, which today incorporates the pleasant agricultural village of Mavromati, in 370-369 BC as a defense against the Spartans, with whom the Messenians had battled during two Messenian Wars, in 743-724 BC and 650-620 BC. The most striking aspect of the ruins is the city's circuit wall, a feat of defensive architecture that rises and dips across the hillsides for an astonishing 9 km (5˝ mi); you can see it as you approach the site. Four gates remain; the best preserved is the north or Arcadian Gate, a double set of gates separated by a round courtyard. On the slabs of ancient paving stone below the arch, grooves worn by ancient chariot wheels are still visible. The heart of the walled city is now occupied by the village, but excavations have uncovered the most important public buildings, including a theater, whose seats have now been restored; the Synedrion, a meeting hall for representatives of independent Messene; the Sebasteion, dedicated to worship of a Roman emperor; the sanctuary to the god Asklepios; and a temple to Artemis Orthia. Outside the walls lie a stadium and a cemetery. category images
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